Our days spent at this magnificent lodge are spent exploring trails through terra firma and floodplain forests. We will be situated on the southern edge of the Amazon rainforest, between two large rivers (the Rios Tapajós and Xingu) which have, over time, acted as barriers to the dispersal of many bird species. The 630 hectare privately owned forest reserve surrounding the Rio Cristalino Lodge is well protected and is bordered on three sides by 250,000 hectares of almost completely undisturbed jungle. The Rio Cristalino is a blackwater river, a natural phenomenon whereby tannins leaching out from the forest vegetation through the sandy soil give the dark colour to the water. A major and much appreciated advantage of blackwater rivers is the relative lack of biting insects.

One of the main attractions of the reserve is the 50m high aluminium tower that offers extraordinary views over the surrounding forest, which stretches away to the far horizon. In the early morning and late afternoon, squabbling flocks of macaws, parrots and parakeets pass by between their roosts and distant feeding trees. Scarlet, Red-and-green and Chestnut-fronted Macaws, Painted and Golden-winged Parakeets, Dusky-billed Parrotlet, and White-bellied, Blue-headed and Red-fan Parrots may be seen but it is the recently-described Kawall’s Amazon that is most sought after along with the Crimson-bellied Parakeet. The canopy flocks, led by the White-winged Shrike-Tanagers may hold Black-girdled Barbet, Tooth-billed Wren, Red-billed Pied-Tanager and the rare Yellow-shouldered Grosbeak. In the flowering or fruiting trees we might find Red-necked, Curl-crested or Lettered Aracaris and Gould’s Toucanet along with a host of Tanagers.

This is also a good vantage point from which to see various primates including Dusky Titi Monkey, Black-and-red Howler, Long-haired Spider Monkey and White-nosed Saki. The Rio Cristalino Forest Reserve also has an excellent trail system and we will spend a lot of our exploring the forest floor. Cinereous Antshrikes often betray the presence of an understorey flock. This could include Blue-necked Jacamar, Red-stained Woodpecker, Curve-billed Scythebill, Chestnut-winged Hookbill, Rufous-rumped and Buff-throated Foliage-gleaners, Fasciated, Black-capped and Amazonian Antshrikes, Wing-barred Manakin and Long-billed Gnatwren. We shall look for the recently described Cryptic Forest-Falcon at the reserve. The reserve is also very good for the increasingly rare Dark-winged Trumpeter. There is a good selection of manakins including Snow-capped, Fiery-capped, Band-tailed and Flame-crested Manakin. There are also some stands of guadua bamboo which hold an interesting array of species including Chestnut-throated Spinetail, Peruvian Recurvebill, Dusky-cheeked Foliage-gleaners, Manu and Striated Antbirds.

An army ant swarm would be a real treat with its attendant Bare-eyed Antbirds, Black-spotted Bare-eyes and Plain-brown and White-chinned Woodcreepers amongst others. The Scaled Ground-Cuckoo has recently been seen here and we shall keep a close eye out for this rare bird. In varzea forest nearby we may see Glossy Antshrike or usky-chested Flycatcher. Near the lodge is a granite outcrop covered in dry open woodland where we may see Brown-banded Puffbird and Natterer’s Slaty Antshrike.

We will also take boat trips along the river and oxbow lakes to look for Red-throated Piping-Guan and Razor-billed Curassow. We may also find a Zigzag Heron at dusk at one of the Ox-bows where we should also see Great Black Hawk, Grey-necked Wood-Rail, Sungrebe, Orange-cheeked Parrot, Hoatzin, Ladder-tailed Nightjar and maybe Amazonian Umbrellabird. Of the more widely distributed species we could also see Blue-and yellow Macaw, Great Pooo, White-necked Jacobin, Great Jacamar, Gold-fronted Piculet, Yellow-throated, Cream-coloured, Ringed Woodpeckers, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Chestnut-belted Gnateater, White-browed Purpletuft, Screaming Piha, Royal Flycatcher and Rose-breasted Chat. There are also Spotted, Variegated and Thrush-like Antpittas present and we shall try and see them if they call. We may also be lucky and find the pretty little Silvery Marmoset or the now very rare Giant Otter. Nights Rio Cristallino.